Lingue
Israeli photographer Gali Tibbon unveils her stunning new Lalibela Christmas images exclusively on CPN
© Gali Tibbon
Israeli photographer Gali Tibbon has been exploring the theme of religion and faith for more than a decade. She has focused on Christianity in Jerusalem, the ancient Samaritan religion and Baptism rituals in the Jordan River. Here, and exclusively for CPN, she presents her latest work, based on three visits to the remarkable holy city of Lalibela in Ethiopia.
As part of my Christianity project in Jerusalem, I encountered the different Christian denominations present in the city. But I have been especially fascinated by the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, meeting many of its worshippers during their pilgrimage from Ethiopia to Christianity's holiest site in Jerusalem, the multi-denominational Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
At sunset, pilgrims make their way to a night mass at the Bet Medhane Alem church.
Ethiopian faith radiates from two cities: Jerusalem and Lalibela, in Ethiopia’s highlands. ‘Jerusalem of Africa’ is one of the names given to Lalibela, also known as ‘Black Jerusalem’. It is famous for its 12th century monolithic churches carved out of the ‘living rock’, and is one of the world's great wonders. These exceptional shrines are said to have been built during the 25-year reign of King Lalibela – with, as legend has it, more than a little help from the angels. Lalibela became a holy city after the capture of Jerusalem by Muslims in 1187. Since pilgrimages to the Holy Land were no longer possible, King Lalibela declared the site, New Jerusalem. Ethiopian faithful make at least one pilgrimage to Lalibela in their lifetimes.
Every year thousands of pilgrims make their way to the sacred city of Lalibela by bus, by foot or by air, to celebrate Christmas. Fascinated by their strong devotion, I travelled to Ethiopia three times to further focus my reportage. The pilgrimage, its faithful worshippers, the rituals and ceremonies, some of which are very ancient and preserved to this day, seem almost to illustrate the Old Testament. I was unable to avoid the feeling of going back in time – way back.
In the days leading up to Christmas, Lalibela becomes the beating heart of Ethiopian Orthodox Christian faith. Tens of thousands of worshippers flock through tunnels and passageways connecting the churches, rushing from one shrine to another in their quest to visit all 11 holy sites. On Christmas Eve, an open-air ceremony is held at the Bet Maryam church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The compound fills with the white-clad faithful, with those lucky enough to get in filling up the church’s courtyard as they stand shoulder to shoulder. Many more are left outside on the surrounding hills. It is a truly biblical scene.
Deacons in their white traditional Shamma tunics and white turbans, carrying prayer sticks and sistrums (percussion instruments), sing and dance to the rhythmic sound of African drums, as the celebration continues through the night. The worshippers chant and sing, and hold candles while the high clergy lead the ceremony dressed in colourful satin and velvet robes, and carrying the traditional embroidered-fringe umbrellas. Early morning at first light, large processional golden crosses and icons are brought out to the sound of ululations from the devout crowds celebrating the birth of Jesus Christ. The pilgrims are at the end of a 43-day period of fasting during which they have abstained from eating animal products, including meat, eggs and dairy.
Gali Tibbon’s equipment
Camera:
EOS 5D Mark II
Lenses:
EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM
EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM
- Biografia: Gali Tibbon
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© Matej Leskovsek
Gali Tibbon is an independent photographer based in Jerusalem. With more than a decade of experience in photojournalism in the Middle East, her work has taken her on assignments in Turkey, Cuba, Egypt, Jordan, Ethiopia, China, Spain and Ukraine. It has been exhibited at several photo festivals and galleries including Les Rencontres d'Arles and Visa pour l’Image in France, and the International Photojournalism Festival of Gijon in Spain. She has been the subject of two documentary films: ‘Mirrors of War’ directed by Patrick Chauvel, and ‘Beyond Assignment’ produced by the Knight Center for International Media.
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